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Arjun Bhai: msg#00101culture.india.sarai.reader
25th December 2004 Arjun Bhai Today is Christmas. I have a present in the offing, soon to come true. Arjun bhai, who has been around VT Station since he was ten years old, is going to talk to me today. Arjun bhai is a hawker. He sits right outside the ticket counter, selling socks. Since sometime now I have been trying to get hold of him. We have a hit-and-miss relationship. But today, we have promised to meet and talk. Today is Christmas. I board a train from Byculla to VT Station. It is 9:20 AM when I land at the station. The station is quiet and empty. I suddenly sense loneliness on the station. The platforms are quiet. Life appears on a standstill. This is not the VT Railway Station I have known. I walk out of the station. Sitting outside is Raghu kaka. Raghu kaka sets up his plastic sheet and sells newspapers right opposite Arjun bhai. Kaka always wears a depressed look on his face. He sits on the road with the newspapers spread out. Inside the railway station, we have the Video Wall. Outside, we have kaka. As people walk past him, I realize that they either slow down or halt for a while to take a peek at the headlines. Democracy and information operate despite labels and boundaries of legality and illegality. And people practice time as they walk out and get inside the railway station. ?Headlines for Free!? is what I think Raghu kaka?s slogan should be. Arjun bhai later told me that Raghu kaka has been around even before he came to the place and started selling goods. As I wait for Arjun bhai, I notice several people walking past. Visibility, marks and signs are the ways in which we make sense of the crowds. We make sense of the city through known symbols. And the symbols, marks and signs change over periods of time. In 1984, it was the textile mill workers. In the period after the 1992-93 riots, it was the Muslims. And in this year, our marks and signs are fixated on hawkers, slum-dwellers and the dirt which constitutes the illegal and the unwanted! In each era, ?the other? changes. And we love to create ?the other? because we cannot live without it. Something has to be fearful and terrorizing. Sometime ago, ?the other? was the leopard who was on the killing spree. And what an irony! Standing right opposite VT Station is the Times of India Building which facilitates the creation and fear of ?the other?. I think it is all about moving images and time. Wow! I practice marking myself. And I try to avoid being marked. Wherever I go, my name is a mystery to everyone. Zainab Bawa ? Parsi? Punjabi? Gujarati? Thus far, my surname has protected my identity at least until the multiples don?t know yet that Zainab is a Muslim name. It?s funny huh! I am the researcher and I am the subject. I trace practices and I am a practitioner myself. Whoops! Self-indulgence huh? Arjun bhai comes running out of the railway station. ?I thought you must be gone! That?s why I came dhawat-padat (scampering and running). If there is ever a problem, you must inform Raghu kaka. He knows me and will give me the message.? ?Have you had tea?? I ask him. ?No, let?s go inside and talk,? he replies. Arjun bhai leads me to one of the tea and coffee stalls inside VT Station. I take out my wallet to pay. He looks and gives me a benign smile, ?No. This is on me.? He pays and hands me a cup of coffee. I am a trifle surprised. Is it coffee because he likes it? Or is it because he assumes that today?s office going persons are more coffee drinkers than tea lovers? That?s not a question on my list today, but it?s worth examining! We walk over to the area of the ticket counter which has several pillars. Arjun bhai and I stand near one of the pillars and start talking. ?I come from a village in Maharashtra. When I was young, I was not interested in studies. I would go off with my maternal uncle and participate in his business activities. My parents would always tell me, ?study, study, study!? but I was not one to listen. I am educated till the fourth class. If I had seriously pursued education, I would be sitting in an office, not selling socks outside VT. When I first came to Bombay, I was selling toys, right here where I am. Then we used to find it very difficult to run with our goods when the BMC van would come to evict us. Toys are difficult to get hold of all at once. So, we stopped selling toys and began to sell socks. It is easy to run with socks when the officials come chasing. This is not my business. It belongs to someone else. I work for him. I have several relations with him. I can?t just say that he is my boss. He is like my brother-in-law because I married a girl from his village. He is also like an elder brother. He is a friend, a companion. And so, I work hard for him. That is why when you would come to ask me to talk, I would tell you to come in the mornings. It is not good to talk at the time of business. Besides, if a customer would come, I would have to attend to him and leave you in between. And I would not like to see you standing on the roads, talking to me. You are like my sister,? he says in a protective tone. ?Why did you come here and decide to do business?? I ask him. ?For generations we have been doing business here. So I also came here. Public is always here. There is no time when there is no public here, except from 2 ? 2:30 PM in the afternoons. Now, everybody knows me here. Even my customers know me. We have a little network here, with those of us who work in the area. But I don?t care or intervene in someone else?s business by the side. Everybody knows that I set up dhanda here. Nobody will encroach on my space. For a day or two someone may come and set up business. But after that, they will go away. It is like guests we have in our house. They come for a day or two and that?s okay. But if they enter your house, you will naturally defend your territory. Isn?t it?? he asks rhetorically. Arjun bhai had disappeared for a few days in between. He says that whenever the officials decide to get strict, it?s good to lay low and not do business for a couple of days. ?I set up business somewhere else in that period. Earlier it was Kharinar and Rajendra Rao. These two had done a lot of evict us hawkers. Then it was okay for a while. Now, again they are behind us. The police and the BMC both harass us. Otherwise there is no other problem. The police will come, take our goods, give us two slaps and either extract the legal 1200-rupee fine or just take some money and settle the mamla (affair). But you must never be afraid of the police. Look at me, I am not afraid any more. Sometimes the BMC operates independently; sometimes they are hand-in-glove with the police. We have to pay haftas. In my grandfather?s time, it used to be Re.1 and now, it is Rs.100.? As Arjun bhai tells me the story of the value of money, I realize that the value of money is also a matter of time. Time changes everything. ?You know, when I first came here, I used to sleep on the footpath. But I am particular about some habits. I need to take a bath once a day and wear washed clothes everyday. So, I used to spend one rupee everyday to buy a pot of water. I would have a bath. And everyday, I would spend two rupees to get my clothes washed. You asked me why I came and started business here nah? I don?t have any bad habits. My heart is clean. I was never into doing drugs. Look at the boys around here, they do drugs. I am not into this. In fact, when they dope and smoke, I start to feel giddy with the smell. So I came here and started doing dhanda. I travel across the city. I see boys doing drugs on the Chowpatty beach. But I never go there.? ?Do you go to Nariman Point?? I ask him excitedly. ?I have never been there, even in times of absolute loneliness, I never go there. What happens when you go to the sea face? You just sit there and see the rocks and stones, that?s it! So I don?t go there,? he tells me bluntly. Arjun bhai is a hard worker. ?I come here everyday from 10 in the morning and stay till 9 at night. I come from Kurla. We store our goods here at a godown, at Fort. Even on Sundays, we set up shop because on Sundays, we have tourists from small towns who shop. Moreover, on Sundays, people from the suburbs come to town because they want to give a nice time to their children ? picnic. So they come and buy as well.? ?So when do you get time for yourself?? I asked him. ?No time. Just business. Earlier I used to watch movies a lot. Now, I think all movies are alike and there is no family film. Haan, yes, when Mughal-e-Azam got released recently, I went to see it with my family. It is a family film.? ?Now, it is hard time. There is no one to care for hawkers and the union is also not a hopeful prospect. We know immediately when the BMC van is around. Believe me, I have hardly been caught. I always manage to escape.? ?You have two more boys with you these days?? I asked him. He started smiling, ?Oh yes, that is because the boys can help when it is time to run with the goods. Otherwise it gets tough when I am alone. Nowadays, the hawkers on the main road don?t set up shop between 5:30 PM to 6:30 PM. Also, if you have noticed, earlier, the shops used to be on both sides of the sidewalk. Now, we are allowed to set up shop only on one side.? I asked him if the ban on crossing roads and the compulsion to use the subway has affected his business. ?Not much. Those who use the roads use them anyway. If you see from the point of view of humanity, it is dangerous to cross roads. But public is public. They do dadagiri (bullying) and they cross the roads despite being fined. Anyway, there are not many people who like using the subway. So they walk on the roads.? Arjun bhai has seen all kinds of changes at VT Station ? the laying down of tiles on the road, the beautification of Bhatia baug park and the creation of the subway. ?The coming of the subway did affect my business. But then, the prices are more in the shops down there. Some people these days believe that the goods we sell on the roads are not of nice quality. So they buy from shops. Actually, there is not much difference. I sell the same thing on the roads for ten rupees and in the shop, you pay fifteen rupees.? ?But there is also a difference in the packaging nah?? I interjected. ?No. We do the same nice packaging for people to like and buy.? ?When I first came here, I used to pay Rs.2 for the rice plate in the GPO (General Post Office) Canteen. Now, it is all expensive. Also, I can?t digest roadside food. I bring food from home and fill up a bottle of water from outside.? ?Oh?, I said, ?you can get free water from the charitable taps behind.? ?No,? he replied, ?You are supposed to drink water then and there. Cannot take water outside,? he informs me. ?Life is difficult. I love my village. But I can?t stay there for too long because I am very used to the city. But I don?t love the city. I am here only to do business, just to earn money. That is what Bombay is about ? earning money. Here there is no humanity. In a rupee, twenty five paisa is honesty and the rest of the twelve annas, there?s nothing.? ?What do you think about VT Railway Station? They say they are going to build a museum here? Also, what changes have you seen at VT Station?? I asked Arjun Bhai. ?Museum? When they make one, I shall see. They have been saying this for years now and I am yet to see something happen. Nothing happens. VT station, I think it is the same as always. Crowds were always there. If 10% people go out of the city, another 20% come in. It is like this only. And what is a railway station? It is like how my home is. To me, my home is a place where I come and go. Same with the railway station ? I come and go here. Nothing more. And public is public. You see, when I was in school, I had studied that the British introduced the railways. Why? Because goods had to be transported. We are like cattle. And this railway station is a place where herding takes place. Sometimes there is lots of public, sometimes there is none. You know it is the same thing that happens with my business too. At some point, there are several people at the same time. And everybody buys. And sometimes, there are many people, but if one person does not buy, all move off. It is the same with the railway station. If one person is moving, everybody is moving. If one person stops, people around stop. And this VT is one place where there will always be public. Lots of public!? ?I live in a chawl in Kurla. My wife and children live with me. I always laugh and smile, even when there is tension. And, you should never get angry. Be patient. That is important in life.? I asked him a little more about the subway market. ?Hmmm. In the subway, there was a problem. The shop-owners used to sell stuff even outside the limits of their shop. So the BMC came running on them.? ?But,? I asked him, ?hawkers sell goods even inside the subway.? ?Yes, of course,? he tells me, ?business is business. Have to do!? I conclude for the day and tell him that I may come back another day. While we were talking, a beggar boy had come asking for alms. Arjun bhai gave his cup of coffee to him. Maybe he doesn?t like coffee and was drinking because I was around. As I walked out of the station, I remembered Arjun bhai?s gesture of paying for the coffee. I think we all live by the generosity of people who themselves have little they own. At least I survive by this generosity! Zainab Bawa Bombay www.xanga.com/CityBytes _________________________________________ reader-list: an open discussion list on media and the city. Critiques & Collaborations To subscribe: send an email to reader-list-request@xxxxxxxxx with subscribe in the subject header. List archive: <https://mail.sarai.net/pipermail/reader-list/> |
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